Well, we are international travelers sort of. Our Alaska adventure began with the ferry trip to Haines. There we enjoyed coastal scenery and many many sea birds. Trees were leafing out and snow was receeding.

On our last day we drove about thirty miles up the Haines Highway and found nesting trumpeter swans and enjoyed a "33 burger" at a country restaurant and gas station at mile-post 33. The road followed the Chilcat River that yielded sights of moose, dozens of eagles, and our first arctic terns of the year. The valley was beginning to show signs of spring, but several feet of snow remained around the thawing marshes and rushing river.

Yesterday, we drove north again, this time with our full rig. We crossed the border in the wilderness about 60 miles from Haines. Then we climbed away fromt he river and across alpine tundra and the pass at Haines summit. Flocks of white ptarmigan strolled in the deep snow along the roadway. A very fluffy arctic fox pranced across the pavement. A wolf paused in its deliberate travels about a hundred yards away from the road. Snow buntings and lapland longspurs flew through snow flurries. We stopped at a turnout for lunch and the wind shook the motorhome. The temperature was well below zero degrees celsius (we are in Canada now.)

Spectacular peaks rose above the white barrens and the blue ice of glaciers glistened in the gaps between them. Gray clouds broke to reveal blue sky that gave way again to cloud. The motor home danced through this actic alpine fairy land and then descended into the taiga or stick forest below. Deep snow surrounded our narrow ribbon of asphalt that made a magic carpet down down down into the Kluane Valley. The lake was frozen. We passed it and glimpsed the town of Haines Junction and another river of pavement, the Alaska Highway.

We crossed the river and entered the town, blessed with a population of 800 souls. A left turn brought us onto the Alaska Highway proper and we followed it about a hundred meters and turned left into the Kluane RV Park, the only campground that is now open. Anne questioned if it was open, but it was, and we checked in. The grounds are a bit rough, but behind the open field is the river forest, and above that stand the peaks of Kluane. They glistten, part silvery rock and part ice. The temperature fell to about 20 degrees Fahrenheit, but we were snug in our little home in the Yukon.

Winter has not really left here, but at dawn a robin was singing and the sun shone. The temperature reached 50 and only the deep snow interfered with our walking and birding. A Kluane National Park nature trail begins at our campground. The snow is almost gone there, but deep puddles made the wearing of rubber boots essential. We walked it at dawn and at sunset (8:30 to 9:30 p.m.). The sunset walk was splendid. A hawk owl flew by just as we started. Ruffed grouse were drumming in the woods. We found one on his grand log after much searching and watched him drum with his wings. Neither Anne nor Chuck had ever witnessed a drumming grouse before. Snipe were calling over the river. A hermit thrush gave its first song of the season.

Yes, we are here a bit early, but it is a great time to be here. A Wisconson family was trucking north, camping in their pickup. She said, "it is time to move North. Soon the wood ticks will be out there in the South. I can't stand them. It is cool here now, but better than warm. No mosquitoes yet." We felt like such wimps.

Our adventure continues.