We have returned from the Dry Tortugas. We enjoyed six days there residing three nights on the boat and three camped on Garden Key. Scored five life-birds and probably twenty year-birds there. Were enchanted by the stark scenery and dramatic wildlife above and below the surface of the turquoise sea. Met wonderful people on our boat and other boaters, campers, rangers, and volunteers. At anchor off Garden Key one is subject to the constant racket of the sooty and noddy turns swarming about Bush Key. "Wide-awake wide-awake" call thousands of birds. The fort to the north is a pale shade of brick subdued by the intense sunlight, direct from the incandescent blue sky and indirect from the white beach. The harsh light is scarcely subdued by the multihued blue ocean that surrounds it. On shore the walls of the fort and precious buttonwood and palm trees provide some shade. The cool ocean water beckons. Sand channels, grass flats, and coral heads surrounded by tropical fish provide a contrast to the warm air above. The passenger ferries arrive about 10:30 a.m. and release a swarm of tourists, birders, and snorklers. The ferries gather their passengers at 2:30 and depart. The island suddenly becomes peaceful. The rangers and volunteers, a dozen or so camper and boaters, and another dozen construction workers remain. The desert island it theirs until the return of the ferries. The island trees and a small fountain and pool of fresh water provide refuge to a small flock of bird refugees that arrive each night on northward migration. Tired and hungry they put on a grand show. Birds such as blackpoll warbler and white-eyed vireo that are normally very difficult to see because of their cryptic behavior bathe and preen in full view providing wonderful photo opportunities. Birders sit for hours a few feet away from the displaying birds. Delightful. Out of time we caught a ferry back to Key West yesterday afternoon. Tomorrow we are on our way to Cherokee.