June 4, 2007 - Anchorage

Another short update from the Anchorage public library. We returned yesterday from a week's stay in Nome. This "bush" town on the Bering Sea was rough and dusty but provided a pleasant base for birding the sub-Arctic tundra.

We flew in by Alaska Air, stayed in the Extra-Dry Bed and Breakfast, and rented a Ford Explorer from Stampede Ventures.

The flights were grand, but clouds on the way up hid most views after our crossing of the bay outside Anchorage. Our return flight had better weather and we stopped at Kotzebue above the Arctic Circle before heading south. Kotzebue Bay remained largely frozen. The patterns and colors of the composite ice surface were gorgeous. Patches of open water appeared as small blue lines and polygons across the frozen surface.

The B and B was wonderful. A family rents a suite above their garage. They provided a clean and comfortable living area and more than enough food for full breakfasts. We prepared them and most of our other meals except for a fine pizza at Milano's restaurant.

The rental car was good too, except for all the lights on in the dashboard and the one rear window did not open.

Nome is hard on cars. Most of the streets are unpaved and dust is everywhere except when it rains. Mud is everywhere too, wheather it is raining or not. Three roads lead out of town. Each runs about 70 miles. Each is rough gravel. Out of town traffic runs at 50 mph. Cars don't last long.

Every home may not have a car or pickup, but all have an ATV and a snowmobile. These do much better in the Nome environment.

We found the brisle-thighed curlew and the bluethroat outside of Nome and also heards of caribu and musk oxen. Just missed seeing a bear. Ursus horribilis has still missed crossing our path. We are not too unhappy about that.

The sea ice was clearing upon our arrival. A local youth got in trouble when he hopped on a piece and it left shore. Good news was he had his cell phone in his pocket and called for help. A photo of the rescue made page one of the Nome Nugget.

The lakes all had at least some open water and the loons moved inland from the sea during our stay. We had wonderful views of both Pacific and red-throated loons in full breeding plumage. The much rarer Arctic loon eluded us on this trip.

The week in Nome went quickly. Our return to Anchorage was uneventful and we birded again today to find new spring arrivals, Swainson's thrush and western wood pewee. We also saw our first porcupine of the year.

Tomorrow we head south down the Kenai peninsula to the town of Seward. There we will take a boat tour to a sea glacier to see it calve and to see the sea birds that feed at the edge of the ice. From there we will work our way around to Homer before heading back here and then north to Denali.

Best wishes to all our kith and kin.