Mark’s notes (8/30 - 9/2)
Submitted by Mark on Mon, 09/02/2019 - 3:29pm.
8/30
Drove to Auxerre from CDG
St Etienne Cathedral - parked by church and went in - very old Romanesque style church - constructed in stages beginning around 500 AD - most of Gothic structure seen today was completed in 1200s (Dark Ages) - very striking stain glass windows
Tourist office - picked up book of walking tour - had lunch at Bounty restaurant - walked to walking bridge over river and looked at boats and town - followed walking trail to Abbey past old section of town with many timbered houses
Saint Germaine Abbey - turned into museum with rich collection of historical artifacts, including Celtic and Roman - had interesting art exhibit in which you looked at iPad to see animation on top of still painting or rocks - also crypt area where had dug out necropolis
Drove to Noyer
Got key from Cathy at boulangerie - checked into comfortable apartment, then Mark and I walked around town - meet Cathy at 7 pm to obtain instructions - walked to Les Millisemes, restaurant in alley operated by owner of high end boulangerie, charcuterie - had buffet style dinner
8/31
Drove to Chablis
Breakfast - bought from Boulangerie downtown
Christian Moreau - had wonderful introduction to Chablis - Christian drove us to top of hill overlooking vineyards and explained where all of the designate regions (grand cru, premier cru, petit Chablis and village) and climats (vineyards) were located - then drove around to see his vines - then back to building for tour of production facilities, movie and tasting - as a coup de grace, he took us to Zinc au fils for a gourmet lunch
Barat - this was small producer in adjoining town of Milly - wines were not great and we didn’t stay long
Drove to Montard (check)
Fontenay Abbey - grounds were beautiful and peaceful - no available tour in English so we walked the grounds - Cistercian Abbey was confiscated during revolution and sold to mill company - ultimately recovered and restored to much of original look - Abbey has beautiful grounds and gardens - also had operating iron forge with pneumatic hammer powered by water
Drove back to Noyer
Bought wine, cheese, pate and bread at shop and eat at apartment- Mark and I took extended walk around Noyer to take pictures of town
9/1
Checked out of Airbnb and Drove to Avallon
St. Lazarath church - walked to church in old town area past Porte tower - another very old Romanesque style church with beautiful stained glass windows and chapel to saints - unusual design with steps in center aisle descending in stages from street
Petit Porte - walked to Porte on main street- looked at wall and towers, as well as view of Morvan Park
Drove to Dijon
Walked to indoor market and checked it out - had live singer with accordion who was quite good - then ate at Les 3 Bures - had pouched eggs
Palais of ducs of Bourgogne (Musee Beaux Arts) - walked Owl trail to Palais - spent two+ hours going through collection - had extensive collection of religious art, plus tombs of ducs - interesting museum that attempted use collection to show how changes in art from one historical period to another were influenced by what was happening at the time - had exhibition of painter who did many works in black paint only on white background
Drove to Beaune and then Meloisey to check into Airbnb
9/2
Drove to Nuits St George - had coffee and pastry at Cafe de Paris - walked to Winery
DuFouleur Freres - spent two wonderful hours with Francois Xavier (FX) - spent 45 minutes in winery reviewing entire process of making wine and use of equipment - then went to tasting room, reviewed location of vineyards, location on hills and soil types - then tasted 4 Nuit St George (including 1 Les St George) and 1 Vosne Romanee wines
Drove to Beaune - eat lunch at La Fleure
Bouchard - spent over 2 hours with Cecile Blanchardon - toured cellar of Maison (walls were foundation of fortress build around time of Hundred Years’ War) - 2 million bottles of last two years premier and grand cru wines stored there - have ancient wines dating back to 1846 that are still drinkable - then walked to top of garden area and looked out over vineyards and trimmed topiary trees in garden - gardeners were cutting lavender and MH was given a bunch - the went to tasting area and tasted 5 reds and 7 whites, including 2 grand crus from Corton (white and red), 2 Fevre chablis and a Ponce Beaujolais (Fleurie)
Hospice de Beaune - found MM across from entrance to Hospice - put her gear in car and returned to take audio guided tour of Hospice Museum -included interesting discussion of history and renovation of Hospice, care of patients, day to day life of nuns and medical advances of the times
La Bussinette- had dinner in Beaune (duck and beef, with frogs legs for appetizer)
Drove back to Meloisey
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