1 small garlic clove, halved 1 cup dry white wine 3/4 pound Gruyère cheese, grated 3/4 pound Emmenthaler, raclette or Appenzeller cheese, grated 1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch 1 to 2 tablespoons kirsch (optional) Kosher salt, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste Freshly grated nutmeg, to taste (optional) Crusty bread cubes; steamed broccoli or cauliflower; carrot, celery or fennel sticks; cubed apple; seedless grapes; clementine sections; cubed salami, soppressata or kielbasa; roasted chestnuts and/or dried apricots, for serving. 1. Rub cut side of garlic on inside of large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed saucepan, preferably cast iron, rubbing the bottom and halfway up the sides. Add wine and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. 2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, toss cheeses with cornstarch. Add a handful at a time to simmering wine, stirring until first handful melts before adding next. Reduce heat to medium and stir constantly until cheese is completely melted. Add kirsch, if using, and heat until bubbling, about 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, if desired. Serve with crusty bread and other accompaniments. Yield: 6 main course servings or 10 appetizer servings. Variations: Red wine-garlic fondue: Substitute red wine for the white, preferably a light-bodied wine like a Loire Valley red. Mince garlic used to season pot and add it to pot along with wine. Omit kirsch and nutmeg. Cheddar-whiskey fondue: Substitute 1 1/2 pounds good extra-sharp Cheddar cheese, and Irish whiskey for the kirsch. Omit nutmeg. Port wine-Cheddar fondue: Omit garlic and kirsch. Substitute port wine for the white, and use 1 1/2 pounds good extra-sharp Cheddar cheese instead of other cheeses. Raclette fondue with cornichons: Omit kirsch and nutmeg. Substitute 1 1/2 pounds raclette cheese. Thinly slice garlic and bring to a simmer with wine. Just before serving, stir in 3 tablespoons finely chopped cornichons. Chipotle fondue with bacon: Omit kirsch and nutmeg. Substitute 1 pound mild Monterey Jack and 1/2 pound aged Monterey Jack (or use all mild). Just before serving, stir in 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons minced chipotle chili in adobo sauce and 4 slices crumbled cooked bacon. Seedy Gouda fondue: Substitute Gouda no older than 2 years old (older Gouda might separate). Stir in 1 teaspoon whole caraway or cumin seeds. Omit kirsch. Goat cheese herb fondue: Substitute half-and-half for the wine. Mince garlic used to season pot and add it to pot along with half-and-half. Substitute fresh goat cheese. Omit kirsch and cornstarch. Stir in 1 tablespoon each chives, parsley and tarragon. Dark beer caramelized onion fondue: Cook 1 sliced onion in 1 tablespoon butter until dark brown and caramelized, about 10 minutes. Substitute dark beer for the wine. Omit kirsch. Stir in caramelized onion.